Anna's fingerless mittens

Norwegian pattern  here

Finally! The pattern and photo tutorial for "Anna's fingerless mittens" is ready!

I've had so many requests for this pattern after I posted some photos on  Instagram a couple of weeks ago, and I thank you all for your patience. 

When I first taught myself to crochet about a year and a half ago, I loved following step-by-step tutorials, and I was so grateful to all the wonderful bloggers out there who generously shared their pattern, and even took the time to take great photos of the process. How wonderful for beginners at crochet to be able to learn this way!

Now that I have tried to make a few patterns myself, I wanted to share some of  my patterns the same way. 

I have counted and re-counted and shot many, many photos of this process. (Good photos are really difficult in November, when you're barely home during daylight... My wish for Christmas: a professional photolamp...)

I'm 100% self-taught when it comes to both crochet and pattern writing, so please let me know if you find any mistakes or have tips for improvement !!

OK -  here goes...the pattern for "Anna's fingerless mittens" (named after my daugher ❤️)

❤️Anna's fingerless mittens ❤️

Yarn used in the pattern: Light pink  "Sterk" from  Du Store Alpakka (40% alpaca, 40% merino, 20% nylon)

Hook : 3 mm

Note: the pattern is written in US terminology. Below are the terms in both US and UK. 

US terms		UK terms
sl st	slip stich	sc	single crochet
sc	single crochet	dc	double crochet
hdc	half double crochet	htr	half treble crochet
dc	double crochet	tr	treble crochet
tr	treble crochet	dtr	double treble crochet
dtr	dbl treble crochet	trip tr/trtr	triple treble crochet
rev sc	reverse single crochet	rev dc	reverse double crochet
yo	yarn over	yoh	yarn over hook

Abbreviations: 

ch: chain stich See video here

hdc: half double crochet See video here

sc: single crochet See video here
st: stich

sl st: slip stich See  her

dc: double crochet See video here

yo: yarn over

Repeat directions between * and *

Tips before you start:
If you want to use thicker or thinner yarn, the number of stiches must be adjusted. The number should be able to divide by 6, to make the border neat and even.
Measure your wrist with the foundation chain. It should fit loosely around your wrist without being too tight.
Remember that the finished mitten will be quite elastic, so don't make it too loose.

The size in this pattern fits my hand, so you should test it on yourself along the way, and adjust it if it feels too tight or too loose.
.

Foundation chain: 
I always start my projects with a single crochet foundation chain instead of chain stiches. This way, you make row 1 and 2 in one go, and you get a much neater and elastic start on you project.

Here is a link to a great  videotutorial , if you're not familiar with this technique.
It can be a little tricky in the beginning, but once you get the hang of it, it feels like a little "crochet revolution" :-)

(PS: if you are familiar with this method, you can make a foundation chain with hdc instead of sc, and skip all the first 3 rows. See video here
I chose to do it with sc here, to make it less complicated for beginners.

Row 1: 
Make a single crochet foundation chain with 42 stiches (or make a chain of 42 st and make sc into eact of the stiches)

The photo shows the "backside" of the foundation chain, which are the st we will use for row 2.

Row 2:

Make a ring using a sl st in the last chain in the row. Chain 3, then make 1 hdc in each st around the ring. See photo below.

Row 3: 
*2 dc in first st. *skip 2 sts. 4 dc. in next. st., skip 2 sts , 2 dc in next st*
Repeat from * to * around.

NB!
Make sure you end the round with 2 dc, so the beginning of the round are the same as the end of the previous round.
This is to make sure that the finihing border will be nice and even.This will be on the backside of the mitten (the inside of you hand)

Row 4:

Place a stichmarker in the beginning of the round, and move this along when you crochet. 

Every row starts after the stichmarker.

Skip 1 st, 4 dc between the 2 dc in the previous row  * skip 3 st, 2 dc between the dc in the previous row* Repeat from * to *  around. 

You will now have a group of 4 dc in the middle of the groups of 2 dc in the previous round, and a group of 2 dc in the middle of the groups of 4 dc in the previous row.

Row 5:

Skip 2 st, 2dc between the 2 dc in the previous row. *skip 3 st, 2 dc between the dc in the previous row* Repeat from * to * around. 

Row  6 -15: 

Repeat row 4 and 5 until you have 12 rows with pattern.Make sure that the last row ends with a group of 2 dc. Se photo below.

The photo below shows the front of the mitten: 

If you prefer to make wristwarmers without the thumb, you can stop here and start on the border. 

The size will then be approximately like this on your hand (see photo 7 below)

If you want to continue and make a fingerless mitten with thumb, skip the next photos and go straight to photo 12, row 16

Row 16, border:

Skip 2 st, 1 sl st. between the dc in the previous round. * skip 3 st. (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) between the dc from the previous row, skip 3 st, 1 sl st between the dc in the previous row* Repeat from * to * around.

See photo below.

NB! Note that the last sl st is made in the same space as the sl st you started with. (se photo 9)

This is how the border looks like on the back. The last sl st is made in the same space as the sl st you started with. See photo below.

Fasten off and you're done !!

 Tah - da! 

The photos below show how to make the mitten with a thumb

Row 16:

You will now make the opening for the thumb

Skip 2 st, 2 dc between the dc in the previous row, skip 3 st, 4 dc in between the dc in the previous row, skip 3 st, 2 dc between the dc in the previous row. Make a single crochet foundation chain of 6 sts (or chain 6 )

Skip 9 sts, 4 dc between the dc from the previous row. (see photo 13)

NB! I can see from the  photos that I have made onedc too many in the group of 4 dcs.... You will skip these stiches anyway, so it does not affect the rest of the pattern, but just be aware that this is a mistake, and all the groups should be with 4 dc, not 5 ...

.

The photo below shows hos the opening for the thumb should look

Row 17:

Skip 1 st, 4 dc between the dc in the previous row, skip 3 st, 2 dc between the dc in the previous row, skip 3 st, 4 dc between the dc in the previous row.

Now you're at the foundation chain for the thumb. Make sure you crochet on the backside of this, where the stiches are more defined. Skip 2 st, 2 dc in next st, skip 2 st, 4 dc in next st, 2 dc between the dc in the previous row. See photo below

This is what it looks like from the backside

...and from the front.

Row 18 - 21: 

Continue the same way as before you made the opening for the thumb, 

Repeat row 4 and 5 until you have 18 rows with pattern. Make sure that the last row ends with a group of 2 dc.(see photo 5)

Row 22 - border: 

Skip 2 st, 1 sl st between the dc from the previous row * skip 3 st, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) between the dc from the previous round, skip 3 st, sl st between the dc in the previous row* Repeat from * to * around. See photo 8 below:

NB! Note that the last sl st is made in the same space as the sl st you started with (see photo 9 below)

This is how the border looks from the front

Thumb

Now it's time to make the thumb. It's not very difficult, but can be a little fiddly..

Row 1:

Fasten the new yarn in the middle of the group of 4 dc in the previous row (see X in the photo below) Chain 3 (this will be the first dc). 1 dc in the same space. Skip 2 st, 4 dc between the dc in the nprevious row, skip 3 st, 2 dc in between dc in the previous row, skip 3st, 4 dc between the dc in the previous row (this space already holds 4 dc from round 17, so the total in this space is 8 dc, 4 for the mitten and 4 for the thumb)

Jump to the group of 4 dc in row 17, the one you made in the foundation chain for the thumb), and make 2 dc in the middle of this group. Skip 2 st, 4 dc in the 2 dc group from the foundation chain.

Row 2:

4 dc between the dc from the previous row (this completes the circle for the thumb) * skip 3 st, 3 dc between the dc from the previous row, skip 3 st, 4 dc between the dc in the previous row* 

Repeat from * to * around. 

This is how the thumb starts to form on the front

Row 3: 

* Skip 3 st, 2 dc between dc in previous row, skip 3 st, 2 dc between the dc in the previous row* Repeat from * to * around. 

The thumb is now probably long enough, and you are ready to start with the border (measure this on you hand, and add en extra row if you prefer to have it longer)

Row  4 - border:

Skip 3 st, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) between the dc in the previous row, skip 3 st, sl st between the dc in the previous row* Repeat from * to * around. 

This is how the thumb looks like from the front

Fasten off and you're done!

Tip: if the holes around the thumb turn out a little loose and too big, you can close these up when you fasten the yarn.

Tah-da! 

One fingerless mitten done! 

You make the other mitten the same way, just remember to make the thumb on the opposite side.

Row 16 - left side:.

Skip 2 st, 2 dc between the dc in the previous row * skip 3 st, 4 dc between the dc in the previous row, skip 3 st, 2 dc between the dc in the previous row* Repeat from * to * 4 times. 

Make a single crochet foundation chain of 6 sts (or chain 6 )

Skip 9 sts, 4 dc between the dc from the previous row. (see photo 13)

Tah-da! 

Two fingerless mittens all done! 

.

I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern, and will love these mittens as much as I do ❤️

I appreciate all your comments, so please do not hesitate to give me your feedback on this pattern, so I can correct any mistakes!

Good luck!

Until next time....

❤️ Live - Laugh - Love ❤️